| From Bolivia, we crossed the border to reach the city of Puno, established at almost 12,000 feet on the Peruvian banks of Titicaca Lake. We were about to approach the mythical islands of the highest navigable lake in the world. Islas Flottantes, the floating islands, the first ones which we reached by boat, drew an artificial and wonderful archipelago: the ground and the houses were completely made of reeds. The Uros people had conceived them so to protect themselves from other tribes. They were still using the aymara language whereas on Taquile, only quechua was spoken. |
| Except the linguistic differences, we understood how much these populations had in common to protect their ancestral traditions. The Taquile Island, renowned for its secular techniques of weaving and knitting, kept alive the making of craft clothing. The inhabitants seemed very keen on passing on, orally and through songs, their history and their customs to the younger generations. Therefore musique and panpipes were strongly anchored in the popular culture. |
| On Isla del Sol, the island of the Sun, we still penetrated more in the heart of the Andean civilization. According to the legend, the sun - father of the first Inca - was indeed born there. This place full of aromatic herbs was in complete harmony with nature. Life was timeless and honoured the goddess of Earth, the famous Pachamama. At nightfall, up in the ruins and the precolombian terraces, we scrutinized the lake and, not far accross, Isla de la Luna, the island of the Moon. We also enjoyed, in a calming silence, a soup of quinoa, a trucha a la plancha, a grilled trout, along with a coca leaves infusion. |
| Our road continued, in the steps of Tintin in Prisoners of the Sun, in the direction of Cuzco. Symbol of the powerful inca empire and inevitable stage to reach Machu Picchu, this city was also decorated with very beautiful colonial constructions. In front of its cathedral was held an endless catholic procession for Palm Sunday and Semana Santa, Holy Week. The religious procession was followed by the military parade, itself followed by dancers in traditional suits, succeeded by an immense crowd of Natives. |
| In spite of their bowler hat, essential feminine attribute in Bolivia as well as in Peru, these ladies had more than ever their cheeks burnt by the sun. They bore, as usual, two long dark plaits tied one to the other by woolen pompoms. Gold teeth, wide pleated skirts, lace blouses, superposed waistcoats, multicolored shawls and black ballerinas were part of this charming and old-fashioned atmosphere. |
| After tasting the Cusquena, the beer of Cusco, and the Inca Cola, the national soft drink, we headed towards Ica, the wine centre of the country. This city was located on a desert strip: the Peruvian vineyard appeared as an unexpected fertile oasis. As usual in South America, it is the rain water running down from the Cordillera that made the land suitable for cultivation. The agricultural area we went through turned out to be a miracle of acclimatization. The products imported by the Spanish colonists - the vine, the olive and the fruit trees - were growing really well in Peru. |
| Crossing between cotton fields, our route led us through an earthquake which did not seem to disturb the armed guards, posted at the entrance of the estates. The reception in the wineries was however every time warm and obliging. We took a chance and tried the sweet red wines and the local sangria. One of the only famous French guests to have ventured into this wine area, some time ahead, was Emile Peynaud, the father of modern winemaking. |
| Ica: Vista Alegre, Tacama. |
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peru
Melisa on Titicaca lake
housing on the floating islands
Uros tradition
woven manta from Taquile island
catholic procession for Palm Sunday
Holy week in Lima